Fabric
Heavyweight Hoodie Guide: GSM, Fleece vs French Terry, and Fit
Customers decide whether your hoodie feels premium within seconds of picking it up, and most of that comes down to fabric weight and construction. Here's how to read GSM, choose between fleece and French terry, and spec a hoodie that feels worth the price.
What does GSM mean?
GSM stands for grams per square metre. It measures how heavy a fabric is: the higher the GSM, the thicker and denser it usually feels. You'll sometimes see weight in ounces per square yard (oz/yd²) instead; 1 oz/yd² is roughly 34 GSM.
Hoodie weight ranges
| Weight | Approx. GSM | How it feels |
|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | Under 280 | Thin, drapey, good for layering or warm climates |
| Midweight | 280 – 350 | Everyday hoodie, comfortable year-round |
| Heavyweight | 350 – 450 | Thick and structured, holds its shape; the streetwear standard |
| Super heavyweight | 450+ | Very dense and boxy, premium feel, warmer |
These ranges are general industry guides; the feel also depends on the yarn, knit and finish. Most premium streetwear hoodies sit in the heavyweight range, because that weight gives the structured, boxy silhouette people associate with the category.
Fleece vs French terry
Both are knitted fabrics with a smooth face. The difference is on the inside.
- Fleece (brushed back): the inner loops are brushed to create a soft, fluffy interior. It's warmer and cosier, and the classic choice for winter hoodies.
- French terry (loopback): the inner loops are left unbrushed. It's more breathable, has a cleaner vintage look, and holds up well to washes and garment dyeing.
For a heavy, cosy hoodie, go fleece. For a washed, vintage or year-round piece, French terry is often the better pick.
Cotton vs cotton-poly blends
- 100% cotton: natural handfeel, breathes well, takes garment dye and acid wash beautifully. Can shrink if it isn't pre-shrunk.
- Cotton-poly blends (e.g. 80/20): less shrinkage, holds shape, resists pilling, and is often more affordable. Polyester content affects how dyes and washes take.
If you plan to acid wash, distress or garment-dye, discuss fabric composition with your manufacturer early, because the result depends heavily on cotton content.
What about tees?
For streetwear tees, heavier is again the trend. Roughly, tees under about 180 GSM read as lightweight, around 180 to 220 as midweight, and 220 GSM and up as heavyweight, with boxy oversized tees often heavier still. Heavier jersey drapes better on oversized and drop-shoulder fits and gives prints a solid base.
Other details that make a hoodie feel premium
- Rib: thick, tight rib on cuffs and hem that matches the body colour.
- Double-layer hood: holds shape and looks fuller.
- Fit: dropped shoulders, wider body, cropped or boxy length.
- Finishes: acid wash, garment dye, raw hems and distressing add character.
- Branding: custom woven labels, neck prints and hang tags.
How to choose for your brand
Start from the experience you want: cosy and heavy, or washed and vintage. Then ask for fabric swatches or a sample in two weights so you can compare in hand. Put your final choice (composition, construction and GSM) in your tech pack so every reorder matches.
Building a heavyweight hoodie?
We produce heavyweight fleece and French terry hoodies, zip-ups and sweat sets in oversized and boxy fits, with washes, puff print, rhinestones and custom labels in-house. Tell us the feel you're after and we'll help you spec it.
Frequently asked questions
What GSM is a heavyweight hoodie?
Heavyweight hoodies are generally around 350 to 450 GSM, and anything above about 450 GSM is often called super heavyweight. The exact feel also depends on the yarn and knit.
Is fleece or French terry better for hoodies?
Fleece is brushed on the inside, so it's warmer and softer. French terry keeps its loops, so it's more breathable and works well for washed, vintage-style pieces.
What GSM is good for an oversized tee?
Most streetwear brands choose heavyweight jersey for oversized tees, roughly 220 GSM and above, because it drapes well and gives a structured, boxy shape.
Does a heavier hoodie mean better quality?
Not automatically. Weight helps, but yarn quality, knit, rib, stitching and finishing matter just as much. Ask for a sample to judge the full garment.
